Oaxaca

Guelaguetza Festival

Guelaguetza Festival

What

Guelaguetza, meaning "gift" or "offering" in Zapotec, is a significant festival in Oaxaca, Mexico, celebrated every July. Originating over 3,000 years ago, it honored the corn goddess Centeotl and ensured agricultural prosperity. Post Spanish colonization, it merged with Catholic traditions, aligning with the feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. The modern Guelaguetza showcases Oaxaca's cultural diversity through parades, dances, and regional offerings, reflecting reciprocal community ties.

When

Guelaguetza is celebrated annually in Oaxaca on the two Mondays following July 16th, which aligns with the feast day of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Unlike some festivals that are determined by the lunar calendar, Guelaguetza's timing is fixed within the Gregorian calendar, not the lunar calendar. Therefore, it occurs on specific Mondays in mid to late July each year.

Where

After a 1920s earthquake, the festival evolved into a statewide cultural event, gaining national and international attention. Its contemporary form includes state-sponsored performances in Oaxaca City, emphasizing the cultural and social unity of its 16 ethnic groups. Additionally, local villages host their own Guelaguetza celebrations, maintaining traditional communal aspects.

Why

Guelaguetza also serves as a platform for political expression and resistance. Indigenous activists use it to protest environmental damage and advocate for land and food sovereignty, building coalitions for long-term political action. The festival's expressive politics allow marginalized voices to highlight issues like mining's harmful impact on local communities, where conventional political channels fail to protect their interests. Through Guelaguetza, Indigenous groups in Oaxaca assert their cultural identity and resistance, striving to preserve their land and future against external exploitation.

How

• Boletos for the Main Event

Tickets for the main event in Oaxaca city go in sale June 1st on Superboletos. Tickets go fast, and it’s recommended to login early in that day to wait in the virtual que. We were offered 2 tickets maximum and the ticket purchasing process was well streamlined technically. Tickets sell out within 24 hours upon release for sections A and B and 2024 cost: Section A: $1510 MXN Section B: $1222 MXN. If you didn’t get a ticket, you can still line up on the day of the event for free seating in Sections C and D.

• Hotels

There are many hotels and I use Booking.com. Look for the Barrio de Jalatlaco for the bohemian neighborhood adjacent to Centro, as the center of the town may be quite loud during festivities with parades and fireworks.

• Taxis

There are ample taxis in town. From the airport, book a taxi from the official taxi stand and they will give you a ticket to hand the driver fully paid ahead of time. There is also a colectivo where you ride with others into town and this can be requested at the same taxi booth prior to exiting the airport. To take a colectivo to neighboring villages, the stand in town is at the corner of Niños Heroes de Chapultepec and just beside the baseball stadium, between there and McDonalds, right at the corner. You can't miss that corner with maroon and white colectivo taxis well marked. Rates for all transport are set by the state of Oaxaca.

• Bus

The ADO bus station is close to Centro. There are different classes of buses beginning with the economic AU, mid price range ADO, and luxury ADO Platinum all with a restroom and air conditioning. You can purchase tickets the day of or online ahead of time. You can take the ADO bus to neighboring villages, and large cities. The city public buses are cheap and frequent and at times crowded without air conditioning.

• Airport

There is a major airport in Oaxaca City: OAX with direct flights from the USA from major hubs including:

1. American Airlines: Dallas, Albuquerque, Washington, D.C., Chicago, Denver, Portland, OR, Philadelphia, New York/Newark.

2. Volaris Airlines: Los Angeles, Oakland, Chicago, Sacramento, Portland, OR

3. United Airlines: Houston, San Francisco, Denver, Seattle, Los Angeles, Chicago, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C..

4. Aeromexico is also codeshare with Delta Airlines and flies direct to Oaxaca from US cities.

Phone & WIFI

Mexico is well connected to the internet and has good local phone service. I recommend an eSIM with airelo. Locals attest to the best coverage with Telcel, and you can buy a physical sim at Oxxo (called oxxo cell that uses the same towers as Telcel), as well as Telcel stores. Oxxo is the local convenient store of Mexico. Also, check with your US provider to see what is covered while in Mexico. ATT MX has spotty coverage per the locals.

Dress

I don’t recommend wearing flashy jewelry or heals in Mexico. There are quaint cobble stone streets and you will be walking more than you do at home. I feel safe in general as a solo female traveler; however I use basic common sense and street smarts that I would use anywhere. My dress is sporty chic with a crossbody bag. So, I recommend you leave your Michael Kors and Rolex at home, especially if you are taking public transport. Carry what you need and leave the rest in the hotel safe.

Elevation

Due to its altitude of 1,555 m (5,102 ft), the climate of Oaxaca is cooler than lowland areas at the same latitude, yet there is humidity. Precipitation is concentrated in the summer months with June being the wettest with an average precipitation of 171 mm (6.7 in). Hottest months are April and May. Prepare for an adjustment to the altitude by drinking lots of water and taking frequent breaks.

Water

Do not drink the tap water in Mexico…ever. I brush my teeth with the tap water without negative effects. Huge garafons are delivered to homes for about 50 pesos. Most hotels will give you drinking water and grocery stores are well stocked. Even during the pandemic, I never saw scarcity in Mexico with supplies in grocery stores. There is a water shortage in Oaxaca and you may see a water truck making a delivery. You can’t miss it, as it is large and loud. Many apartments have reservoirs on the roof catching rain water. Locals may experience frequent water cuts and go days without city water. As a tourist you should not be impacted by this staying in a hotel, yet this is not guaranteed in an Airbnb as this is a local opening their private home.

Money

The Peso MXN is the currency of Mexico. Many establishments take credit cards, however in Oaxaca even Michelin star restaurants only take cash or bank transfer. Street vendors and Mercado eateries only take cash and exact change or small bills are appreciated. To take the public bus or colectivo, you will need cash. Coins, not just cash, are king. There are plenty of ATM’s and banks. Banks can exchange dollars for pesos and it’s wise to always travel with a $100 bill. What if the electricity goes out or the ATM is out of cash? You can order pesos from your bank prior to your trip, or use a bank card. Charles Schwab refunds ATM fees worldwide. Always decline the local rate when the machine asks this question. Your bank’s rate will be used instead.

More Details: Guelaguetza 2024 Official Events from Oaxaca Events.com

The Guelaguetza 2024 will features a vibrant lineup of events, staring from July 1st. The state of Oaxaca has revealed the full schedule for the festival at Casa Miguel Alemán in Mexico City, where tourism and cultural authorities shared the detailed activities and programs planned for July.

• Guelaguetza Inauguration 2024 Plaza de la Danza July 1st (6 PM)

• Delegation Parade Fuente de las 8 Regiones to Temple of Santo Domingo July 20 & 27th (5 PM)

• Lunes del Cerro Guelaguetza: Guelaguetza Auditorium July 22 & 29th (10 AM – 5 PM)

• Artistic and Cultural Expressions Alameda de León, Barrio de Xochimilco, and Barrio de Jalatlaco July 3, 7, 10, 17, 24, 31st (5 PM)

• Bani Stui Gulal (Repetition of the Old) Guelaguetza Auditorium July 20 & 27th (8 PM)

• Donají, The Legend: Guelaguetza Auditorium July 21 and 28th (8 PM)

• Gastronomic Tianguis “From My Roots with Their Flavors” Plaza de la Danza July 17-21st (10 AM – 10 PM)

• Mezcal Fair 2024: Cultural and Convention Center of Oaxaca July 20-30th (11 AM – 10 PM)

• Guelaguetza Artisan Fair: Cultural and Convention Center of Oaxaca July 20-30th (11 AM – 8 PM)

• Festival of Moles: Gastronomic Center of Oaxaca July 25-26th (2 PM)

• Chirimías Gathering: Historic Center and Alameda de León July 19th (12 PM – 6 PM)

• Cheese and Quesillo Fair Reyes Etla Main Square July 20-22nd (10 AM – 6 PM)

• Cycling Tour Various locations July 25-28th

A word of caution about travel in Mexico: There are protests that block access to the bus station and roadways at times. The Oaxaca airport also shuts down due to protests. The area is prone to earthquakes and is in proximity to the active Popocatépetl volcano that could impact the area with ash. Also, Oaxaca state has beaches on the Pacific Ocean and hurricanes do impact the area. Stay up to date with Crisis24 and be ready to pivot with flexibility.

Beach Add On While in Mexico 🇲🇽 Isla Mujeres

If you visit Oaxaca and want a beach vacation as well, flights within the country of Mexico are cheap and bus travel luxury. I wrote about my visit to Isla Mujeres in 2022, and love the little island off Cancun’s coast.